Sisters in Italy, Meeting in Rome

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For most of my pre-pubescent life, I was one girl living with 4 brothers. I longed for a sister but thought it would never happen. Then, In May of 1963 my mother bore another girl. I was so thrilled that I ran through our local streets screaming that I had a sister. Mom named her Patrice after our father, Patrick. And so, our journey began.

Since there was nearly a 12-year age difference between us, we really didn’t share friends, schools, or other activities. We shared a room—a very tiny room that barely fit a crib and a twin bed before we moved to a bigger home. 

What did I know about a baby sleeping in my room? My sister was diagnosed with asthma and severe allergies. Her breathing while sleeping frightened me.  I would have trouble sleeping because I feared she would die. I remember picking her up and holding her against me as I sat up in my bed, leaning against the wall, drifting in and out of sleep. That was the beginning of my sleep problems and the beginning of a strong, almost motherly bond with my sis.

As the years went by, we moved to a larger home where we had a bigger room. But by the time I graduated from secondary school, Patrice was graduating from kindergarten. Our paths diverged. I still loved her. Yet our lives wandered different roads.

When we were both considered adults, we began to share more adventures, share our secrets and we bonded as friends. 

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Patrice at age 1, Marilyn at age 13

Last winter, 2023-2024, my sister called to tell me that her partner had purchased a round-trip ticket for her to come to Italy. That was such a caring gesture. Now my sister asked me to plan her journey and travel with her. I was so excited to have this opportunity to explore with her. I asked her to send me her ticket information—that’s when I discovered that she would be traveling to and from Rome. We had two weeks to plan, and I was up for almost anything. I asked my sister to search for things she would like to do. Then I would find lodgings for us and organize our time in each place.

My sister and her partner had visited Italy in 2022. We wanted to experience different locations, doing specifics that Patrice would like. She had not been to the Pantheon last time, nor Piazza Navona. And above all else, she wanted to meet some of our cousins in Rome.

We checked into our guesthouse in the late afternoon. We had rented an apartment with two beds, a kitchen, with breakfast included. I had brought some food on my train ride to meet her in Rome. We ate that food for our dinner while enjoying the ambiance surrounding us in the Monti district of Rome. 

Each morning at the guesthouse we received a basket of breakfast treats plus fruit juice to go with our daily espresso. After that carbohydrate overload we caught a taxi to the Vatican and the Basilica. Patrice had been given orders to buy holy water blessed by the Pope. We began our rainy-day selecting bottles as well as a rosary for our dad who would be turning 100 years old in July. From there we walked and wandered.

Evening views from the Monti District.

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Wet cobblestone as we walked.

Walking from the Vatican. Do you recognize where we are?

This was our day of the ‘kill your legs walking.’ As we wandered away from Vatican City, we enjoyed the ancient structures from varied periods of time. Our next goal was to visit Piazza Navona. My sister is a fast walker, even in the rain. I needed to rein her in. I explained that Romans do not walk fast. And neither do I. She laughed and attempted to slow her pace.

Of course, we wandered off the direct route and met others doing the same thing. Eventually we arrived just as the rain stopped. 

Piazza Navona and Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers.

The above Fountain is one of three within this rectangle, which was once, in the first century A.D., Domitian’s Stadium where all types of games were played. Now, it is surrounded by Baroque architecture, a church and more. We were hungry while visiting this piazza, but I warned my sister that the cost of the lovely restaurants might just blow our budget.  We continued walking.

As we traveled through the streets of Rome, searching for our next stop, the Pantheon, we met other travelers. My sister is always an outgoing person, moreso than I am, and we did chat with strangers along the way. For me, it was a gift from my sister to have these interactions. Sometimes I am simply too focused on the end result and the surrounding architecture. I get lost in that instead of enjoying the walk itself and the others on our path. Thanks sis. Oh and did I mention that she stops to pet dogs wherever she goes? I love her for that too.

By the time we arrived at the piazza in front of the Pantheon, we were starving. We stopped at a local restaurant for a meal and a seat to rest our weary legs. The waiters were lovely, the food was good. 

And the Pantheon area was STUFFED with tourists.

Outside the Pantheon. 

This year Rome has instituted a 5 Euro fee for entering the Pantheon. Because of that, I believe, this piazza is overpacked with people all the time. We had to buy a tour ticket to even get inside as all the 5 Euro tickets were sold out long before we arrived in Rome. 

We decided to go inside the Pantheon the following day as we had more plans for later. My sister was going to meet some of our cousins for dinner—and for the very first time.

The walk continued. By the time we returned to our hotel before our family dinner, we had walked over 10,000 steps. 

The day before our dinner plans would occur, our cousin asked what my sister would like to eat. “She loves gnocchi just as I do,” I told her. And just like that, homemade gnocchi were on the dinner menu at the Buzzelli house. These cousins are from the Palumbo/Buzzelli line in Abruzzo—our mother’s side of the family. I first met them when I was 19 years old. They have been the most generous and heartwarming people from that part of the family. I knew Patrice would love them.

Patrice does not speak more than a word or two of Italian. I knew she was nervous, but I reassured her that our younger cousin, Martina, was fluent in English and I understand more Italian than I speak it. I will help with translating.

Cousins Adelina and Daniele picked us up at the metro station near their home. Patrice’s smile and greeting made an impression on our cousins. Daniele spoke a few words in English and off we went to their mother, Celeste’s, apartment.  When we arrived, it was hugs all around and loads of Italian being spoken. Martina was going to be late. It was up to me to translate for Patrice. My cousins always have said that I speak better Italian when I drink wine.  So, the pouring of wine began while we watched Celeste begin to roll out the dough for the gnocchi. Patrice offered to help but Celeste insisted she sit down. 

When you are not truly fluent in a language, translating for another person is a challenge. Still, with a glass of wine, the cousins’ hand gestures and big smiles, I managed to do more Italian speaking and translating. At one point, I thought I was explaining something to Patrice when she laughed and said, “Marilyn, you’re speaking to me in Italian!” We all laughed.

Patrice did say she began to understand more of what was being said simply by the hand gestures they all used, especially Daniele. He is very demonstrative. By the time the gnocchi were ready to be served, Martina and her boyfriend arrived and more English was being spoken…still we translated as Celeste doesn’t speak English.

Above is the family matriarch, Celeste, at her table with our first course of homemade gnocchi. 

After Patrice was full of gnocchi there were still gnocchi on her plate. I then whispered to her that we had to eat all the gnocchi no matter what or it would insult Celeste. Patrice’s eyes nearly popped out of her head, but she ate it all. 

I had not prepared her for what happened next. As the empty gnocchi bowls were taken away, out came the second course of meat and vegetables. Patrice was astounded. I whispered to her to take a small piece to eat. She did not want the vegetable or salad that came next. That was ok with everyone. And we all kept chatting and laughing.

While Patrice and I were near the Pantheon, we bought about 20 small sweets from a very good bakery. That was our only contribution to dinner. After they were served and enjoyed, Adelina came out of the kitchen with homemade Tiramisu.  We were absolutely stuffed but we Ricci girls could not pass up the Tiramisu. I think it was about 10:00 PM by the time we finished eating.

Adelina and Daniele with me.

After a long goodbye, including farewell to Martina’s dog, we waddled to the car and Daniele and Adelina drove us to our lodgings in Centro Storico. We climbed up the stairs, fell into Patrice’s bed and giggled about the entire evening.  Finally, I made it to my room and slept as though I was in a coma—it was a food coma and the residue of a festival of love.

The next morning, over our basket of tasty carbohydrates and coffee, Patrice talked about how these cousins reminded her of our grandmothers and our great-grandmother who had shared our lives in Minnesota. She was teary-eyed but content. It gave her the feeling I have when I am with them. We are family, family who accept us and love us as we do for them. The feeling is peaceful and I always feel blessed by it. Now Patrice does too.

On our third day in Rome Patrice will meet a Del Fiacco cousin. These are also cousins on my mother’s side. The Buzzelli family is from my Great-Grandmother whereas the Del Fiacco family is from my Great-Grandfather’s side. They are all from the town of Paterno Di Avezzano but are not related.

Carla is a wonderful woman who has lived both in the USA and in Italy—she was born in Italy but has moved back and forth. We only connected a few years ago. Now Patrice will have the opportunity to meet her. Since Carla has not been feeling well as of late, we chose to go to a local mall where she could walk less. It also features a wonderful Napoletano Restaurant.

Carla Picked us up at our lodgings and drove us to the mall. Her english is perfect which helps Patrice to relax. However, driving in the central area of Rome did stress Patrice out. She rides motorcycles in the US and she could not believe her eyes as she saw all the scooters and Vespas weaving in and out of traffic. 

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Patrice and Carla after their fill of Pizza

We enjoyed chatting and laughing with Carla. We stayed a bit too long as she needed to pick up her cute little dog from Doggie Day Care, so we went with her. Patrice was in the back when the little doggie jumped in.

My sister and doggies always get along. 

It was difficult to say farewell to Carla. She is a brilliant, funny, kind soul. I hope to see her again soon.

We finished the day with our time at the Pantheon and a late dinner.  This time we wandered around the exterior of the Pantheon, paused to hear a street performer and to tip him while we sat in the sunshine. 

We took a taxi home from the Pantheon. We spent our time in the Monti district before packing up and preparing to leave for Florence in the morning.

Patrice on her second birthday.

Ci Vediamo Presto! See You Soon!

A dopo!